A -    Yes, you will need a power source of 12 to 24 VDC

A - Electrical components should always be installed by a knowledgeable and qualified individual. Wire gauge and fusing requirements are based on circuit load and configuration and therefore will vary by installation. In all instances the wire gauge should be large enough to accommodate the total circuit load, and fusing should prevent overcurrent events on the circuit. Lumitec lights do not require additional components such as dimmers and proprietary switches. Complete installation instructions for each product are included in each package.

A - Yes, by running 2 of our 12VDC lights in SERIES the lights can be operated on a 24VDC system.

A - Some Noise is common on any switching type of power supply due to the nature of the power conversion. As long as there is switching of this type, there will be noise generated. Each of our lights has a switching  power supply in it, as is the case with many electronics today.

Proposed Solutions:

First; separate the power wire running to the lights from any other wiring on vessel. When the power lines touch (are in same conduit, zip tied together, bundled) it can cause transference that is causing the speaker noise. Run across/perpendicular to bundles. 9 out of 10 times this eliminates the noise.

Secondly; you may install a relay between the lights and the shortest distance to the power supply, then connect your switch to the relay. Separate all power wires to the lights from any other wiring on the vessel. The Relay should be rated for approximately 20% more than the total amp draw of the lights being installed. The circuit should be fused properly based on approximately 20% more than the total amp draw of the lights (in-line, fused bus bar, fused circuit breaker are all acceptable depending on you installation).

Lastly, or in addition to the above; try putting a 4700 µF Electrolytic Capacitor across the positive and negative power terminal at the back of the amplifier (or radio). As long as you get one that is 35V or higher, and over 4700 µF, it ought to do the trick. The capacitor has a polarity marking (stripe with - symbol goes to the negative terminal) so be sure not to connect it backwards.

A - Potential Reasons that there may be Noise from the Stereo Speakers.

1. PWM low frequency hum coupling to the speaker wires.

Proposed Solutions to item 1:

• Ensure that speaker cables are not run next to the power wires. Speaker wire runs should be kept as far away from any power wire runs to the lights or any product which may be using PWM control.
• Use shielded wires or twisted pair wires for the speakers.
• If they are run adjacent and cross power wires, they should be perpendicular and not parallel.
• Typically if noise is coupling to the speaker wires, the level will not be increased as the volume is increased. This will help distinguish if noise is coming from the speaker wires or from power wires for the amplifier.

2. PWM low frequency hum coupling to power wires for the amplifier.
3. Ringing or buzz coupling to the power wires for the amplifier.

      Proposed Solutions to items 2 and 3:

• At a minimum we recommend running power for our lights directly to the battery via appropriately sized wire and fuse and or breaker, rather than a bus that is shared with the stereo amplifier power. Both Positive and Negative wires should be direct runs. This will minimize any effects of any low frequency hum coupling to and from other pieces of equipment. This is a very effective means of preventing equipment sharing the same bus from coupling and should be standard practice.
• We also recommend, if possible that the same is done for the power wires for the amplifier. Both positive and negative connected directly to the battery. This will ensure that the amplifier is as isolated as possible from other pieces of equipment that may present a low level hum as well. Power wires should not run parallel to that of the lights, or if that cannot be avoided they should be separated as far as possible and cross perpendicular if needed.
• The key is to avoid an intermediate bus that is shared with your amplifier and other pieces of equipment that have switching supplies, as that is an area prone to coupling any low level hum from various types of equipment. Once the wiring is correct. Adding a 35V/4700 microfarad capacitor across the positive and negative power terminals at the back of the amplifier, or as close to the amplifier as possible. This should minimize any additional low frequency hum noise that may be picked up from other equipment.